Buying a used car: 12 inspection points

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E'lon berilgan sana: August 3, 2026
Buying a used car: 12 inspection points

On the used-car market the price is often set by appearance rather than condition. A washed and polished car looks new — but that says nothing about the engine or the body. This list helps you find the main risks in about an hour.

Start with the documents

  • Vehicle registration and the seller's passport — do the names match?
  • If the seller is not the owner — a notarised power of attorney with the right to sell.
  • Does the VIN match the document? Painted over or filed down — walk away.
  • Fines and liens can be checked on official portals.

Body — 4 points

  • Paint thickness. A gauge is cheap. Factory paint is usually 90–140 µm. Over 200 means the panel was resprayed.
  • Door gaps. All gaps should be the same width. Uneven gaps point to accident repair.
  • Rust. Lower door edges, boot floor, inner wings.
  • Glass dates. Every window carries a production year. One that differs was replaced.

Engine — 4 points

  • Start it from cold. If the seller warmed it up beforehand, ask why.
  • Exhaust colour. Blue — burning oil. White when warm — coolant. Black — fuel system.
  • Oil dipstick. Milky colour means coolant has mixed in — an expensive repair.
  • Sound. Knocking, whistling, uneven idle — all need diagnostics.

Suspension — 2 points

  • Knocking at low speed over bumps — shock absorbers or ball joints.
  • The car pulls to one side on a flat road — the geometry is off.

And the last two

  • Mileage. Does the wear on the wheel, pedals and seat match the odometer?
  • Service history. No records means nobody knows how the car was maintained.

The single best advice

Take the car you like to a garage with a lift. A diagnostic costing 100–200 thousand sums sometimes saves you from a ten-million mistake. If the seller refuses — that is an answer too.

Ulashish
Cars
Guide
Safety

O‘xshash maqolalar

Avoiding fraud in online deals: 8 warning signs

On classifieds sites fraud almost always follows the same few patterns. Once you know them, most attempts are visible from the first message.

1. The price is well below market

If a comparable item costs 10 million and one is 6, there is a reason. Sometimes it is genuine (an urgent sale), but usually it is not. An offer that is too good is the first warning.

2. They ask for prepayment

The most common scheme. «I'll reserve it», «a deposit for delivery», «another buyer is waiting, pay and I'll keep it for you» — all lead to the same place.

Rule: do not transfer money before seeing the item.

3. They pull you off the platform

«Let's not talk here, this is my number» is not a crime by itself. But fraudsters do exactly this: off-platform there is no trail.

4. They rush you

«It has to be today», «in an hour I'll give it to someone else» — the hurry exists to stop you checking. A real seller will wait.

5. They ask for a confirmation code

Nobody may ask you for the code on the back of your card or a code from an SMS. Receiving money needs only the card number. If a code is requested, this is an attempt to take money, not to receive it.

6. «Couriers» and fake links

You are sent a «delivery service» link that looks like a bank page and asks for card details. Read the address carefully — one letter differs.

7. The profile is new and empty

Registered today, one listing, no reviews — not guilt by itself, but a reason for caution.

8. The photos come from the internet

Run a reverse image search. If the photo appears on another site in another city, the seller does not have the item.

Meeting safely

  • In daylight, in a busy place.
  • Not alone, if possible.
  • For a large sum — inside or next to a bank.
  • Inspect the item on the spot, not «I'll check at home».
  • Tell someone close where and when you are meeting.

If you were defrauded anyway

Save the conversation, the payment receipt and a screenshot of the listing — they can be deleted. Then report it to the platform and to the police. The faster you act, the better the chance of recovering the money.

Maqolani o‘qish

Buying a flat: how to check the documents

For most people a flat is the largest purchase of their life. It is also where a mistake costs the most: the money does not come back and court cases run for years. Here is what to check before signing.

1. Who owns the property

The cadastre document is the main one. The name on it must match the seller's passport. Ask for the original, not a copy.

A flat may have several owners. In that case all of them must consent — if one does not, the deal can be overturned later.

2. How it was acquired

Ask how the seller obtained the flat: bought, inherited, or received as a gift.

Inheritance demands the most caution: other heirs can appear. If less than three years have passed since it was inherited, show the papers to a lawyer.

3. Who is registered there

People registered at the address can remain after the sale. Especially:

  • minors;
  • people temporarily deregistered who retain the right to return.

Put a clause in the contract — «the seller deregisters everyone by this date» — and tie part of the payment to it.

4. Liens and restrictions

The flat may be mortgaged or under seizure. Buying one means buying a problem rather than a home. Restrictions can be checked on the state services portal.

5. Debts

Utilities, gas, electricity, internet — record the position on the day of signing. Formally the debt stays with the previous owner, but collection starts with you.

6. Alterations

If a wall was removed or a balcony joined to a room — is it reflected in the documents? Unregistered alterations become your problem, and the fine is issued to you.

7. How payment is made

Pay after registration, or through a bank safe deposit box or letter of credit. «Money first, documents later» is where most losses happen.

On lawyers

A lawyer costs around 0.5% of the flat's price. That is insurance. If even one of the seven points above is unclear, do not decide alone.

Maqolani o‘qish

How to write a listing that sells: title, photos and price

The same item sells in a week in one listing and sits for two months in another. The difference is usually not the item — it is the listing. Three things below: title, photos and price.

Photos are 80% of the listing

Buyers look at the photo first and read the text second. Most listings lose right here.

  • Shoot in daylight, near a window. Lamp light distorts colour and flash creates glare.
  • Clear the background. Dishes, scattered items, other people — all of it distracts.
  • Add 6–10 photos. A single photo suggests you are hiding something.
  • Photograph the defect too. It sounds odd but it works: the buyer trusts you and there is no argument at the meeting.
  • The first photo is the best one. Only that one appears in the list.

Title — so you get found

People do not search for «phone», they search for a specific model. The title should carry:

  • full make and model («iPhone 13 128GB», «Chevrolet Cobalt 2019»);
  • condition or a key feature («mint condition», «one owner»);
  • the district, if location matters.

What you do not need: «CHEAP!!!», «URGENT», rows of exclamation marks. They do not add trust — they remove it.

Description — answer questions before they are asked

A good description answers the buyer's questions in advance. Every question lengthens the exchange, and half of people leave before you reply.

  • How long was it used / how old is it?
  • Why are you selling? (almost always asked)
  • Any defects? Say so plainly.
  • What is included — box, documents, charger?
  • Where and when can it be seen?

Price

Before setting a price, look at 5–10 similar listings. Two mistakes dominate:

  • Too high. The listing sits for months, you lower it anyway — but by then it is «old» and nobody opens it.
  • Too low. Buyers assume there is a hidden defect.

Where haggling is normal, build in 5–10% — but not double the market price.

And finally: response speed

A seller who replies a day later has already lost the buyer. Check messages several times a day — it does more than cutting the price.

Maqolani o‘qish